I'm a huge fan of soufflé. And not those ubiquitous, sloppy chocolate 'flourless' cakes that attempt to pass as soufflé. I scoff. Too many times all over New York, at reputable and even delectable restaurants - my hopes have been dashed by the muddy wonders masquarading as soufflés. It's as if restaurants who care about the aesthetic placement of rabbit, shallots and champignons on a plate with carefully dusted pepper, couldn't be bothered to do a proper soufflé, which when done perfectly, is crisp yet relenting to the slightest touch of a cool spoon, inexorably moist and airy, as if kissing the breath of a beloved.
I've finally found a place in Manhattan that creates such beautiful soufflé that puts a delightful, epicurean moan to one's lips. It's a bit of a trek, but so very worth it.
It's Capsouto Frères - a relaxed and romantic bistro in West Tribeca, 451 Washington St & Watt St. - one block east of the west side highway, one block south of Canal St.
I sat outside on an Indian summer night, under the Lillet parasols, admiring the juxtaposition of Tribecean warehouse-land and the civilized interior of Capsouto Frères. I eagerly awaited the arrival of the hazelnut and raspberry soufflès while sipping a Lillet blonde.
The very engaging server brought the soufflès and carefully dipped into the crisp top with a spoon, then drizzled the raspberry coulis and praline creme anglaise sauces into the small crater. I was giddy with delight when I saw that it was a proper soufflè. How do I describe the taste? It dissolves in your mouth like foam, yet the top layer and the crust is slightly brunt and with crystalline texture of remnant sugar. The raspberry coulis and hazelnut creme are harmoniously matched and did not overpower the delicate soufflè.
I merely went for dessert and drinks - they are more than happy for you to drop in for only dessert. However, they have a wonderful game menu, if you like quail, sweetbreads, patè, lamb, etc. There's also a prix-fixe of $35, which is a total bargain, given the selection and quality of the menu, the atmosphere, the service, and conversation with the sharp-witted owner, Samuel. He told many stories - one of which started, "He found himself to be an intellectual, when in fact he was just a cynic..."
Capsouto Frères is celebrating their 26th year this year - go help them celebrate. I'll be returning shortly to have their chocolate soufflè.
Capsouto Frères
451 Washington St. (Watts St.)
Manhattan, NY 10013
212-966-4900
http://www.capsoutofreres.com/
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