au currant

Delinquent Sommelier

better late than never. one hopes.

It's week 7 of my sommelier certification course and unlike my earlier autumnal promise - I have been hoarding my knowledge for myself. But no longer! I'll attempt to truncate basic knowledge into an entry before I meanderlust into regions.

Wine appreciation can seem complex and pretentious. Too many things to remember. To simplify it, think about your senses. In wine, your senses of sight, smell, taste, touch are engaged (sorry - there are no aural wines. yet.) So consider them when you try to appreciate it. I like to taste a wine in this order:

sight:  what color is the wine when you tilt it slightly to your left against the light? Is it nearly clear, yellow, deep ruby, garnet, etc? remember that both red and white wines 'brown' as they age.

smell: swirl the glass on the table, with your fore and middle fingers steading the stem - rather than picking up the glass with your thumb and forefinger - you have more control this way. park your nose inside the wine glass and inhale deeply. what does the bouquet (scent) remind you of?

taste: sip a small amount into your mouth - and let it swirl all around your tongue, cheeks, roof of mouth. swallow and exhale through your nose (this is the secondary smell called seve). does the wine feel light or heavy? what flavors do you pick up? fruit, floral, vegetale, animal, roasted? (more on this later.)

touch: how does the wine make your mouth feel? does it dry your teeth, gums, mouth? or does it make your mouth salivate? does it coat your mouth? how long does the flavor last - and does it change at all?

It may seem like a lot to juggle at once, but it will come naturally, as long as you remember sight, smell, taste, touch. Or even better: point to your eye, nose, mouth, then look at your hand. and try to ignore the people looking at smart little you, a little funny.

Sommelier in Training

               
                                sommelier society of america

The crispness of Autumn brings with it an oenophilic intrigue for yours truly... I am taking a course with The Sommelier Society of America. Founded in 1954, the SSA is the oldest organization in America, devoted to the education of wine. It  offers a five month long seminar topped off with an ultra hard exam, replete with multiple choice questions with multiple right answers (read: what flavors comprise this grape varietal? a) flint b) moss c) citrus d) socks ) and blind tasting. Passing the exam allows one to join the society and confers a laurel of snobnoxiousness. Power corrupts and all, but I think I'll refuse that temptation, especially since it won't befit the performing monkey I'll become during dinners with friends. I can already feel it happening. (No, you couldn't possibly have sancerre with coq au vin!)

All pretentiousness aside, I invite you to learn along with me this fall. Each week I'll write a little snippet with tippets. To kick off:

Wine is essentially fermented grape juice. Rather simply put, there are three types of wines. Red, white and rose.

Red wine is made by juicing with the grape skin intact.
White wine is made by either juicing after red grape skin is removed, or by using only white grapes.
Rose is a curious beast - a proper rose is made by removing the skin shortly into the fermenting process (perhaps a few hours until desired color is reached), but plenty of wineries will mix white wine with a dash of red afterwards and call it rose.

1. You can make white wine out of red grapes (called blanc de noir) but you can't make red wine out of white grapes. 
2. Don't smell the cork. It smells like cork. Not the wine. And it's a telltale sign of someone who doesn't know anything about wine.
3. Match weight for weight. A light meal goes with light wine. Seafood with white, red for boar or heavy tomoto sauce pasta.
4. "If it grows together, it goes together" (Edna Lewis). If you're eating Italian, go for Italian wine. South American food with South American - or as close as you can get it.

and - I can't resist slipping in a little thing about the bubbly:

The proper way to open a bottle of champagne is to remove the bale (the wire cage surrounding the cork), hold the bottle at a 45 degree angle (to keep air bubbles level), then hold the cork and turn the bottle. The bottle should open smoothly, without NASCARish celebrations.

Next week is about the components of wine and the technical aspects of tasting. I'll try to master the swirl and spit and will give a full report.

USHIWAKAMARU THE GREAT

             

                    USHI WAKAMARU!!!!

Somehow I just want to yell that name.

Apparently, it's the name of an 12th century Japanese superhero. Now he's reborn as a delightful sushi restaurant in Noho, on 136 Houston St. between McDougal and Sullivan, saving me from my sushi doldrums and ho hums.

As a sushiphile, I've eaten at some of the sushi greats in the city - Masa, Nobu, Morimoto, Tomoe, Sushi Yasuda, En Japanese Brasserie, Sakagura, Jewel Bako, etc. While all those places merit a special place in the sushi pantheon, for quality, freshness and authenticity, I had settled on Tomoe. I've been a die-hard Tomoe fan for many years, standing in line for hours in the snow, ready with beers in the summers. Yet this unpretentious place, Ushi Wakamaru, has so impressed me that I'm naming it my favourite sushi place in the city. 

The fish is delicate and expertly cut so that it disintegrates on your tongue. The owner and chef Hideo has his fish delivered from Japan 2-3 times weekly and also uses local fish. Also, Ushi Wakamaru has some of the finest cooked appetizers presented in unexpectedly architectural detail. Among them is the cooked scallops heated on a giant shell over flames still licking the sides. The eggplant soup is also deliciously hearty - the miso soup is flavoured with shrimp heads.

The uni deserves a separate paragraph of its own. It's unlike any uni I have ever tasted - fragrant, juicy, salty, perfect. Usually, uni can be slimy and almost repellent when ordinary mortals prepare it.  At Ushi, the sublime uni is a result of excellent quality and expert preparation.

Upon ordering sake, the waitress brought us a selection of sake cups and asked us to choose. We ended up with charmingly mismatched cups.

Hideo was very interested in teaching us about the fish and pointing out what we were going to have next and flavours to watch for. He was also very indulgently responsive - if I asked him about a certain fish, he'd tell me about it, and cut me some to sample and compare with the Japanese vs local market fish. As the night grew long (we had nabbed a 9pm reservation the night before to sit at the sushi bar in front of Hideo) and we all grew friendlier, there was a comical moment where Hideo wanted to tell us a Japanese idiom (and of course we didn't get it) when all the remaining patrons pitched in trying to translate in vain (Neatly perfect? Perfectly fitting? Fitting tight?). Altogether, it was a memorable and enjoyable evening.

Here are some tips to enjoying Ushi:

1. SHOCKER! They take reservations, unlike Tomoe. Ask to sit at the sushi bar.
    If you can nab it, sit in front of the owner/chef Hideo and chat him up.
2. Order the omakase $70 - it's an over generous sampling of what Ushi offers.
      (matter of fact, the waitress remarked astonishedly - you're getting two
        omakases for two people? It's A LOT of food! Turns out she was right.)
3. The tiny shrimp sashimi is juicy and sweet.
4. The uni is a must. Once you have it here, it will be such toil to have it anywhere else.


                              Here's a laughing Hideo and Schnapp:

                                       

                     

     and for dessert, some homemade grapefruit jelly (sorry it's half eaten):

                                      

It's the relaxed, authentic, un-messed with quality of Ushi Wakamaru that leaves me mesmerized.  Unadorned and elegant, the slices of toro inspire all manner of comparisons with Josef Hoffman's furniture design.

I think many of us have accepted for fact that for truly great sushi, we must mortgage the house. Having done taste comparisons of the aforementioned bastions of sushi, I can honestly say that the equation:

                                             fancy = quality

is rubbish. Ushiwakamaru is a sushi paragon to be had at a bargain - but it'll only stay a secret for so long. From the outside, it's easy to imagine that there are no superheroes here - but now you know to yell Ushiwakamaru!

Small is Beautiful

Here are some restaurants I want to check out soon - all small in size, tucked away and cozy.

(photo and listing lovingly bitten off from newyork citysearch, thank you citysearch!)

Petite Crevette

Photo by Oscar Perez

144 Hicks St (Cross Street: Between President Street and Union Street)
Brooklyn, NY 11231View Map
(718) 855-2632
Directions: F; G at Carroll St

A Brooklyn favorite for ultra-fresh fish is reborn in Carroll Gardens.

http://newyork.citysearch.com/profile/44408646/brooklyn_ny/petite_crevette.html

Frankie's 17 Spuntino

17 Clinton St (Cross Street: Stanton Street)
New York, NY 10002View Map
(212) 253-2303
Directions: F at Delancey St; J, M, Z at Essex St

The Italian sputino hops the Brooklyn Bridge and brings its charm to the Lower East Side.

http://newyork.citysearch.com/profile/41912575/new_york_ny/frankie_s_17_spuntino.html

Knife + Fork Restaurant

Photo by Oscar Perez

108 E 4th St (Cross Street: 2nd Avenue)
New York, NY 10003View Map
(212) 228-4885
Directions: F, V at 2nd Ave; 6 at Bleecker St

Fresh Greenmarket flavors fortify pan-European fare in the East Village.

http://newyork.citysearch.com/profile/41918646/new_york_ny/knife_fork_restaurant.html

The End of the Quest for Soufflé: Capsouto Frères

                                     

I'm a huge fan of soufflé. And not those ubiquitous, sloppy chocolate 'flourless' cakes that attempt to pass as soufflé. I scoff. Too many times all over New York, at reputable and even delectable restaurants - my hopes have been dashed by the muddy wonders masquarading as soufflés. It's as if restaurants who care about the aesthetic placement of rabbit, shallots and champignons on a plate with carefully dusted pepper, couldn't be bothered to do a proper soufflé, which when done perfectly, is crisp yet relenting to the slightest touch of a cool spoon, inexorably moist and airy, as if kissing the breath of a beloved. 

I've finally found a place in Manhattan that creates such beautiful soufflé that puts a delightful, epicurean moan to one's lips. It's a bit of a trek, but so very worth it.

It's Capsouto Frères - a relaxed and romantic bistro in West Tribeca, 451 Washington St & Watt St. - one block east of the west side highway, one block south of Canal St.

                            

I sat outside on an Indian summer night, under the Lillet parasols, admiring the juxtaposition of Tribecean warehouse-land and the civilized interior of Capsouto Frères. I eagerly awaited the arrival of the hazelnut and raspberry soufflès while sipping a Lillet blonde.

The very engaging server brought the soufflès and carefully dipped into the crisp top with a spoon, then drizzled the raspberry coulis and praline creme anglaise sauces into the small crater. I was giddy with delight when I saw that it was a proper soufflè. How do I describe the taste? It dissolves in your mouth like foam, yet the top layer and the crust is slightly brunt and with crystalline texture of remnant sugar. The raspberry coulis and hazelnut creme are harmoniously matched and did not overpower the delicate soufflè.

I merely went for dessert and drinks - they are more than happy for you to drop in for only dessert. However, they have a wonderful game menu, if you like quail, sweetbreads, patè, lamb, etc. There's also a prix-fixe of $35, which is a total bargain, given the selection and quality of the menu, the atmosphere, the service, and conversation with the sharp-witted owner, Samuel. He told many stories - one of which started, "He found himself to be an intellectual, when in fact he was just a cynic..."

Capsouto Frères is celebrating their 26th year this year - go help them celebrate. I'll be returning shortly to have their chocolate soufflè.

Capsouto Frères
451 Washington St. (Watts St.)
Manhattan, NY 10013
212-966-4900
http://www.capsoutofreres.com/

Korean by Korean

A guide to excellent Korean food for when you want to be the only in-the-know white person surrounded by a sea of asian people:

It's 4:30am the bars are closed and you're hungry:
Kun Jip on 32nd St. between 5th and Broadway (north side of street, near the middle)

It's where all the Koreans bustle - there's always a line. Open 24 hrs day, it makes for an excellent stop for grub on your way home from clubbing. Try the galbi (marinated rib bbq). The dolsot bibimbap (stone pot cooked rice with mixed vegetables) is excellent here. And after you're done eating, why not relax for awhile at Juvenex, a neighboring non-sketchy spa that's open 24 hrs? Liz Ko and once got over our hangovers there.   

When you want to initiate Korean cuisine virgins and they're the scene-y bunch:
Woo Lae Ok in Soho

The decor is decidely sleek, modern, in shades of blues and grays and there's not even a whiff of tell-tale bbq burning. This is where Koreans come to entertain non-Korean clients who want to try that 'nouvelle asian cuisine.' The food is good, not entirely authentic, and pricier than k-town, but that's the Soho tax. It's nonetheless a good option for those who want to have an upscale korean dining experience.

It's cold outside and nothing but soup can warm you up:
Gahm Mee Ok

Open 24 hrs, this is the place to come when you're feeling a bit sick-y and want soup to warm you up. They are famous for their sullongtang - an oxtail broth with rice vermicelli, thinly sliced beef and rice inside. I'd ask for the rice separately and eat it alternatingly with spoon and chopsticks, accompanied by kimchi or kakduggi that they slice at the table for you. And - ask for bori-cha - it's barley tea, served free of charge - quite possibly the chosen drink of koreans all over the world. We drink it hot in the winter, cold in the summers.

More to come...

guard the list with your life. You don't want the spots to go the way of day old fish.

Bizzy at Balthazar

                                       

                   I am all cheese but I still love Balthazar.

I had a business lunch with Dana, the external affairs guru at the 92nd St. Y. She and I are coordinating some cultural events for the Brown Alumni Club of NY. And to chit chat about what a fascinating person she is. (She used to write and edit travel guides!)

Back to Balthazar - it's such a pleasant place to lunch, amidst all the ambient kitchen noise, delicious smells, waiters in crisp white aprons, the old clock in the background, giant mirrors, snippets of conversation - feeling included just because of the jostling proximity of the tables. Then there's the airy high ceilings... it is quite Paris, if you blink fast enough.

From a more practical point of view, lunch there was a breeze. I made a reservation about 30 minutes before I showed up. We were seated promptly. The service was a tiny bit slow, but I appreciated that enforced leisure. Who wants to have croque monsieur in a hurry?

Balthazar

80 Spring St.
(bet. B'way & Crosby St.)
Manhattan, NY 10012
212-965-1414

Anatolian Cookin' (aka kickass sunday)

                                  

                          Click here for Cooking Class Photos

                                  Kick Ass Sunday involves:

                    1 part cooking class at Miette Culinary Studio

                      1 part central park with friends and puppy

So as part of my never-ending birthday present, ladybug took me to cooking class at Miette Culinary Studio where we took a course in Anatolian cuisine i.e. Turkish fare.

The significance of this may be missed by many of you beguiled by my knitting and general girly-ness.

                                           I COOKED!

This is a major accomplishment for me. I never cook. I  don't know how. I can't even boil water right. Do you see the picture up there? I made it! I made baklava! Amidst major ridicule. Apparently, everyone knows exactly what "a cup" looks like. And knows what 'leveling' is. What is it? I don't know. I guess I don't know how use a measuring cup.

Then we made meatballs. This is ladybug making lamb kofte (mini football shaped lamb meatballs)

                               

The finished dish looked like this:

                              

and I MADE IT!!! It was delicious. Just ask any of those who are still alive.

This is the very nice (and very patient) chef instructors:

                              

This is the class description:

Sunday August 13, 2006– Anatolian Kitchen-Adult weekend workshop - 2:00PM - 4:00PM
Adult Cooking Class $95
Join us for a special class of Turkish cuisine, featuring a full menu of traditional (and delicious!) national specialties. Led by Joshua Hakimi, who learned the techniques of Turkish cooking during an extended stay there, your hands-on class will bring these recipes into your home-cooking repertoire.
Chorba Merjemek (red lentil and tomato soup) Salata (vegetable and feta cheese salad) Kofte ve Bulgar Pilaf (Lamb meatballs over Summer Greens, with saffron yogurt sauce, fresh herb bulgar wheat, roasted pepper), Baklava ve Nane Chai (pistachio, walnut pastry and mint tea)

http://www.mietteculinarystudio.com/

After all of this, ladybug, her boy Jason, Lucas, Schnapp and I met up in Sheepmeadow and finally did a version of the birthday picnic I had wanted to do, frisbees and all. We saw the sun set and saw Lucas play with his lady friend, a wandering Javanese. Both of them neutered yet sniffing and poking each other. Ahhh - nature. Thou art cruel sometimes.

Lessons/Takeaways:

1 - Syrup = buckets of melted sugar

2 - Baklava fresh out of the oven - is a marvelous, multi-layered, flaky thing

3 - I CAN COOK! So I urge y'all to stop running in the other direction when I offer to cook something for you.

Random photo alert:

Here's a picture of ladybug's feet. I always seem to take pictures of them.

                                 

Dwindling Summer Nights Dining

Summer nights are dwindling. Make the most of it by checking out these places:

Malatesta

A cute Italian place in the west village. It's on Christopher & Washington - during the summer it's great - with open doors to let in the breeze from the river. It's cash only, great italian food, great pasta. It feels like you're in Italy somewhere.

Eleven Madison Park

On 11 Madison Park & Lex - a bit formalish - it's great - very delicious - and they have a $65 prix-fixe. Extremely delicious. On the expensive side - I went there for a client dinner last week and enjoyed it immensely. I'm not sure if you like foie gras, (you may very well hate it, I'm sorry if I'm offending you) - but if you do, they do it marvelously.

Le Gigot

My perennial favorite French place in the west village - 18 Cornelia St - simply fabulous French food, prepared by a French-Morroccan chef. He's lovely. The duck is great - the oysters are best in the city, carrot soup is delightful.

Po

31 Cornelia St. - just beautiful pasta - glorious, delicious, melts in your mouth. This place is hard to get into - so try earlier or later - or try walking in. It's also very close to Le Gigot - so between the two, I think you'll be able to get a seat.

Chocolate by bald man

                                 

So ladybug (aka ooon ha!) took me to Max Brenner, a chocolate bar that opened last thursday, right below union square on broadway. As soon as we walked in, I was enveloped in chocolate-y air. They were playing 'End of the Road' by Boyz II Men, which immediately brought me back to middle school. I was beyond ecstatic.

I was already stuffed silly from eating soft-shell crab with panang curry at Holy Basil a few blocks away. But for chocolate, I always make an exception. We had the chocolate melting heart - a delectable amalgam - a core of melted milk and white chocolate in a shell of airy cake with accroutrements: sliced strawberries and a beaker of chocolate sauce.

Max Brenner is a chocolate haven - I cringe to compare it to the Hershey's store on 42nd, but there is a slight 'cheese' element to it that is similar. Unlike Hershey's tourist decor, Max Brenner's decor is understated and modern - the color scheme ranges from light to dark chocolate brown and the high ceilings give the place an airy quality. The service was superfriendly and the desserts are capitulation-inducing. What impressed me most of all was the delicious aroma of warm chocolate... it was so very disappointing to leave that warmth and into the humid New York city night air.

I will be returning soon, Max Brenner.

http://www.maxbrenner.com/